La humilde papa: mucho más que un ingrediente básico
Por Doreen Colondres
Frita, hervida, asada, majada, en tortilla, pastel o empanada —la papa es esa amiga que nunca falla. Esta semana celebramos el Día Internacional de la Papa, y no es cualquier fecha: es un homenaje a una de las grandes protagonistas de nuestra cocina mundial. Esa que ha quitado el hambre de muchos, que alimenta, reconforta, cura… y hasta emociona.
Originaria de Los Andes, la papa ha cruzado fronteras, cocinas y generaciones. En Perú, chefs como Gastón Acurio la elevan a obra de arte con variedades que cuentan historias de altura y tradición. En Argentina, Francis Mallman la lleva al fuego como nadie. En Ecuador, tiene espacio hasta en el hornado. Y en España, nadie discute el poder de una tortilla bien hecha o de unas patatas meneas, riojanas o bravas con carácter, sin olvidar las asadas al limón que también enamoran en tierras griegas.
El pastel de papa es patrimonio emocional en Argentina. Y en Puerto Rico y el Caribe, ¿quién se resiste a unas papas rellenas recién fritas o a un pastelón como los de la abuela?
Porque sí, más allá de la alta cocina, la papa es sinónimo de hogar. Las abuelas del mundo la han transformado en manjares con amor, creatividad y esa sabiduría que no cabe en libros.
Pero también es un alimento que merece ser celebrado por su papel clave en la lucha contra el hambre. Es un cultivo resiliente, que necesita menos agua que otros, y que nos brinda una nutrición poderosa con solo cuatro ingredientes: tierra, sol, agua y paciencia.
¿Sabías que Perú tiene más de 3.000 variedades de papa? Y que una papa mediana con piel aporta más potasio que un plátano y casi la mitad de la vitamina C diaria recomendada. Celebrar la papa es también celebrar la cocina de todos.
Así que, en este día, brindemos por lo sencillo que nos une, por lo sabroso que nos conecta, y por ese tubérculo que tiene el poder de alimentar el mundo de mil maneras sin cansarnos… y siempre hacernos felices con solo una mordida.
Receta: Tortilla de patatas
(Del libro La Cocina No Muerde, de Doreen Colondres)
20 minutos; para compartir
Lo que necesitas:
8 huevos
6 papas (patatas) amarillas o papas russet medianas, peladas y cortadas en finas en rodajas
1 cebolla blanca, pelada y cortada bien pequeña
3/4 de taza de aceite de oliva extra virgen, de buena calidad
1 diente de ajo, cortado bien pequeño
1 guindilla (opcional)
Sal al gusto
Lo que tienes que hacer:
En una sartén mediana, a temperatura mediana alta, agrega el aceite, las cebollas, la papas, el ajo, la guindilla, un poco de sal y cocina hasta que la papa esté tierna, revolviendo de vez en cuando para que todo se cocine bien. Mientras, en un bowl, bate los huevos, agrega una pizca de sal y cuando las papas estén listas, escúrrelas y reserva el aceite y descarta la guindilla. Una vez pierdan un poco de calor, agrégalas con las cebollas al envase de los huevos y mezcla suavemente sin romper la papa. En el mismo sartén que cocinaste las cebollas, añade un poco del aceite que reservaste, calienta a temperatura mediana alta y agrega toda la mezcla, esparciendo bien los huevos y la papa para que se distribuyan bien. Baja la temperatura a mediana baja y cocina unos 5-7 minutos por el primer lado y luego con la ayuda de un plato plano más grande que el sartén, la volteas y la deslizas para llevarla al sartén nuevamente, con la espátula dale forma si se te parte o se sale un poco de papa y cocina por 4 minutos más por el otro lado. Sirve y disfruta con pan fresco.
En casi todos los países de habla español se conoce este plato. Mi abuela le agregaba plátano maduro y chorizo como cena. Se vale agregarle espinaca, setas y hasta pimientos de piquillo. El secreto está en no cocinarla demasiado para que quede húmeda y, claro está, en usar los mejores ingredientes: preferiblemente huevos orgánicos, una cebolla fresca y un aceite de oliva de calidad. La simplicidad y la calidad pueden ayudarte a cocinar la mejor tortilla del mundo.
Nota a editores: El Día Internacional de la Papa se celebra el 30 de mayo.
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