Aceitunas: del picoteo a la olla
POR DOREEN COLONDRES
Las pobres aceitunas a veces cargan con una injusticia culinaria: las vemos siempre como la compañía del vino, la cerveza o la tabla de charcuterie… pero olvidamos que son mucho más que eso. Son una bomba de sabor, historia y salud que merecen brillar también dentro de la olla, el horno y hasta en el mortero.
En Puerto Rico, las agregamos sin pensarlo dos veces al picadillo, los guisos de habichuelas, de carne o de pollo. En cada cucharada, ese toque salino y profundo cambia todo el balance del plato. En el resto del mundo pasa lo mismo: el Mediterráneo las adora en ensaladas y tostadas; y países como Perú las incorporan en cremas, tapenades y pastas, especialmente las negras, como parte de su deliciosa fusión con la cocina española e italiana.
Verdes o negras, no todas saben igual
Una buena calidad de aceituna verde o negra no solo se diferencian por el color. Unas aportan frescura, amargor, dulzor y unas son más carnosas que otras, perfectas para ensaladas, pastas, o simplemente sobre una tostada con un chorrito de aceite de oliva virgen extra. Entre las más comunes (de buena calidad) encuentras la:
-Kalamata (Grecia): intensa, afrutada y con un dulzor natural que enamora. Ideal para ensaladas, pan artesanal o en una focaccia.
-Cerignola (Italia): grande, carnosa y suave, perfecta para aperitivos o para rellenar con anchoas, queso o pimientos.
-Castelvetrano (Sicilia): una de las más dulces del mundo. Su textura mantecosa la hace irresistible para pastas, pizzas o simplemente al natural.
¿Por qué algunas aceitunas saben tan ácidas?
No todas se curan igual. Las más baratas suelen pasar por procesos químicos, lo que deja un sabor ácido y plano. En cambio, las de buena calidad se curan lentamente en salmuera natural, desarrollando matices dulces, frutales y una textura más carnosa. Por eso, elige las que sepan a fruto, no a vinagre.
Usos que te van a inspirar
Agrégalas en guisos, empanadas, pastas y en todo tipo de ensaladas. Pero no olvides que si las mueles en un mortero, hasta lograr un paté, triunfarán en una tostada. Y por supuesto, en arroces y pescados al horno, son geniales.
Un pequeño tesoro nutricional. Están llenas de grasas buenas, antioxidantes y Vitamina E. Además, son bajas en carbohidratos y una fuente natural de energía saludable. Unas pocas al día bastan para sumar sabor, textura y bienestar, recordándonos que lo simple también puede ser extraordinario.
Aquí te comparto un clásico de mi libro y mi cocina:
Ensalada de Quinoa Griega con Kalamata
Ingredientes:
1/2 taza de quinoa heirloom o tricolor, cocida
2 tomates medianos (heirloom cherry o estilo pera)
1 pepino, cortado en cubos pequeños
1 pimiento verde, cortado en cubos pequeños
1/2 cebolla morada mediana, cortada pequeña
8-10 aceitunas Kalamata, cortadas en cuatro
2 cdas. de perejil italiano (o más al gusto)
1 cda. de orégano seco
3 cdas. de aceite de oliva virgen extra
Jugo de 1 limón
Chorrito de vinagre de vino (1 cda.)
2 onzas de queso Feta
1 diente de ajo picado bien pequeño (opcional)
Lo que tienes que hacer:
Pica y mezcla todos los ingredientes, combinando suavemente con la quinoa al final. Agrega el aceite, el jugo de limón, el vinagre, la sal, pimienta, mezcle y sirve o refrigera para que la disfrutes fría y los sabores se unan más.
*Doreen Colondres es autora, chef, portavoz de cocina y vinos, creadora de lacocinanomuerde.com y fundadora de vitishouse.com. Síguela en @doreencolondres
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