Aceitunas: del picoteo a la olla

POR DOREEN COLONDRES

Las pobres aceitunas a veces cargan con una injusticia culinaria: las vemos siempre como la compañía del vino, la cerveza o la tabla de charcuterie… pero olvidamos que son mucho más que eso. Son una bomba de sabor, historia y salud que merecen brillar también dentro de la olla, el horno y hasta en el mortero.

En Puerto Rico, las agregamos sin pensarlo dos veces al picadillo, los guisos de habichuelas, de carne o de pollo. En cada cucharada, ese toque salino y profundo cambia todo el balance del plato. En el resto del mundo pasa lo mismo: el Mediterráneo las adora en ensaladas y tostadas; y países como Perú las incorporan en cremas, tapenades y pastas, especialmente las negras, como parte de su deliciosa fusión con la cocina española e italiana.

Verdes o negras, no todas saben igual

Una buena calidad de aceituna verde o negra no solo se diferencian por el color. Unas aportan frescura, amargor, dulzor y unas son más carnosas que otras, perfectas para ensaladas, pastas, o simplemente sobre una tostada con un chorrito de aceite de oliva virgen extra. Entre las más comunes (de buena calidad) encuentras la:

-Kalamata (Grecia): intensa, afrutada y con un dulzor natural que enamora. Ideal para ensaladas, pan artesanal o en una focaccia.

-Cerignola (Italia): grande, carnosa y suave, perfecta para aperitivos o para rellenar con anchoas, queso o pimientos.

-Castelvetrano (Sicilia): una de las más dulces del mundo. Su textura mantecosa la hace irresistible para pastas, pizzas o simplemente al natural.

¿Por qué algunas aceitunas saben tan ácidas?

No todas se curan igual. Las más baratas suelen pasar por procesos químicos, lo que deja un sabor ácido y plano. En cambio, las de buena calidad se curan lentamente en salmuera natural, desarrollando matices dulces, frutales y una textura más carnosa. Por eso, elige las que sepan a fruto, no a vinagre.

Usos que te van a inspirar

Agrégalas en guisos, empanadas, pastas y en todo tipo de ensaladas. Pero no olvides que si las mueles en un mortero, hasta lograr un paté, triunfarán en una tostada. Y por supuesto, en arroces y pescados al horno, son geniales.

Un pequeño tesoro nutricional. Están llenas de grasas buenas, antioxidantes y Vitamina E. Además, son bajas en carbohidratos y una fuente natural de energía saludable. Unas pocas al día bastan para sumar sabor, textura y bienestar, recordándonos que lo simple también puede ser extraordinario.

Aquí te comparto un clásico de mi libro y mi cocina:

Ensalada de Quinoa Griega con Kalamata

Ingredientes:

1/2 taza de quinoa heirloom o tricolor, cocida

2 tomates medianos (heirloom cherry o estilo pera)

1 pepino, cortado en cubos pequeños

1 pimiento verde, cortado en cubos pequeños

1/2 cebolla morada mediana, cortada pequeña

8-10 aceitunas Kalamata, cortadas en cuatro

2 cdas. de perejil italiano (o más al gusto)

1 cda. de orégano seco

3 cdas. de aceite de oliva virgen extra

Jugo de 1 limón

Chorrito de vinagre de vino (1 cda.)

2 onzas de queso Feta

1 diente de ajo picado bien pequeño (opcional)

Lo que tienes que hacer:

Pica y mezcla todos los ingredientes, combinando suavemente con la quinoa al final. Agrega el aceite, el jugo de limón, el vinagre, la sal, pimienta, mezcle y sirve o refrigera para que la disfrutes fría y los sabores se unan más.

*Doreen Colondres es autora, chef, portavoz de cocina y vinos, creadora de lacocinanomuerde.com y fundadora de vitishouse.com. Síguela en @doreencolondres

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